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A few words about Ectoplasm,
Ghost Mist,
and Plasma Lights
<-Back One of the
most exciting things you can photograph when you are out ghost hunting
is the manifestation phenomena known as ectoplasm (also called ghost
mist and plasma lights). Ectoplasm is a physical manifestation
of a spirit or ghost that can show up on photographs, and can
sometimes even be seen with the naked eye, if you are lucky and
quick. Digital and film cameras will
record it and different models will capture it better than others.
Ectoplasm can manifest in bright, colorful, fiery clouds, such as in the photo below. (from in mid-end of a roll of 35mm film.) ![]() It can also
show itself as lightning-like lines, such as in this photo:
![]() Here is
another
one. This time with red ecto:
![]() Here are an
example of ghost mist type ectoplasm:
![]() Could the blue and red mist in the photo be spectral bodies forming? False Ecto There are things that can cause false ectoplasm photos you should be aware of. The most common is the most simple to explain. The camera strap or cap is most often the culprit. It falls into view as the photo is taken and the flash makes it glow. It gives the impression of being a very impressive plasma light to the untrained eye. Here is an example of the camera strap in the way. ![]() Another thing
that will cause false results is smoke.
No smoking should ever be allowed during investigations because smoke can give a result that looks very much like ghost mist, but is not. Unless you know that someone nearby was smoking, it can be hard to tell the difference. Here is a more obvious example of how smoke can look like ecto. ![]() Another thing
to watch out for if you are moving from a warm to cold environment (or
cold to warm) when taking photos is condensation on the
lens of your camera which, until it clears, can seem like a mist in the
photo. If you are outside on a cold night, be sure that the
mist from your own breath is not hanging in front of the lens, giving a
ghostly effect.
Settings are everything when it comes to night photos. Cameras set to the wrong setting (especially digital cameras) can cause false plasma lights (also known as supercharged orbs). If your camera is set in slow shot mode, or for some cameras, in red eye reduction mode, during night shots and you point it towards a light and then move it even the littlest bit, you are likely to get false plasma lights. Here is one example we created by setting a Nikon cool pix into slow shot mode and pointing it towards a road at night as cars passed by. With a slight shake of the wrist,we produced instant (but fake) plasma lights. ![]() It is extremely
important to know your camera equipment before you got out and start
shooting photos. Some camera auto modes will go into slow shot
automatically in low light conditions. Because most digital
cameras, and many modern film cameras have anti-shake filters, even
false plasma
light photos could have totally clear, straight lines in the foreground
(and many will). As you can see the straight white line at the
side of the road in this fake example (above).
One tried and true way to spot fake plasma lights is easy. If the plasma lights run parallel as they do above, they are false. The movement in the photo above all follow the same path.. This is because it is actually representing the movement of the camera in our hands and not the lights in front of the camera. If the lights move uniformly together, you have camera movement and a slow shutter speed, not ghost phenomenon. Another thing that can cause false ectoplasm to appear on film (this does not apply to digital photography) is a light leak. Light leakage most often happens when film is not fully rewound before the back of the camera is opened. Even if it is only opened the tiniest bit, it can cause discolorations on the first few frames of the film. Light leakage can look very much like ectoplasm. There are a few ways to check if what is on your film is ecto or light leakage.
![]() If you look
carefully at these two
photos, and at the one at the top of the page you may see the
difference. Unlike the photo at the top of the page, the color on these
photos is soft, and flat. But the biggest difference shows up
when you look at the negative. In these two photos,
the red area goes off the frame and onto the surrounding film; and they
are both from the
first 3 frames of a roll of film. Unlike the example at the top
of the page.
![]() The best way to
avoid light leakage is to be sure to fully rewind your film. If
you have a manual rewinder, rewind the film for a few extra turns once
you think it is done. If you have an auto rewinder in your
camera, when you believe it has finished rewinding, count slowly to 10
before you open the back to change the film. This is especially
important if your batteries might be running low.
If you find that you got a whole roll of film like this, before you think you have the most haunted place in the world, bring your camera in to have it checked out. You could have something wrong with the body of the camera that is letting stray light in. This type of Ectoplasm is very rare. Be sure to rule out camera issues before jumping to conclusions. Knowing if what you see on your photos it truly possible ghost activity or something more mundane is important. Do not jump to conclusions. The NEPRS teams take many hundreds of photos at each investigation site and most end up in the "uninteresting" file. Don't lose heart if you do not get many, or any, photos with ectoplasmic activity. They are far more rare than orbs and far harder to capture on film. But don't give up. go to top |